Monday, 30 March 2020

Hokkaido and the coronavirus - part 6

Well, I suppose it had to happen.
The coronavirus has officially arrived in Muroran. A receptionist at a pediatric clinic in the city was diagnosed earlier today. She had returned from Hawaii last week, went to work, a few days later began feeling 'a bit dodgy', got tested and lo and, indeed, behold, she has successfully taken the title of Muroran's 'patient zero'.
Cian thought it would be me, but no, yet again I disappointed the boy.
Mind you, I'd say there a fair few worried parents in the town tonight who have visited the clinic with their children over the past few days and must be imagining the worst.
And yet the Made-in-Japan absurdity train keeps right on rolling along. The school year is set to start as normal next week. Children will be asked to wash their hands a lot, wear masks, and the classroom windows will be opened at the end of each period.
There is snow forecast for this coming weekend, and masks can't be got around here for love nor money.
People are still being politely requested to 'refrain' from venturing out at weekends. As if the coronavirus only struck on Saturdays and Sundays. 
Then there was this morning's paper. After a weekend that saw three successive days in which a new record was set for the number of new confirmed cases of the virus in Japan, the Hokkaido Shimbun's front page led with ...


Yes, that's right, the Olympics. Or more specifically, the new proposed course for the Olympic Torch relay. You couldn't make this up. The country is on the brink of an uncontrollable epidemic and Hokkaido's largest newspaper thinks that the most newsworthy topic is an event that has already been rendered utterly irrelevant by the rest of the world.
I would describe this as 'ostrich head in the sand' stuff, but that would be cruelly libeling the intelligence of the bird.

Thursday, 26 March 2020

Tokyo and the coronavirus

I think this is when we begin the ominous duuuh-nu, duuh-nu, du-nu, du-nu, du-nu theme from Jaws. The graph shows the sudden spike in confirmed cases within the largest city on the planet. Still relatively small, but what is worrying is that many of the cases cannot be traced to a specific person or cluster as the source of the infection. Based on what is happening in New York, this would suggest that the virus is already quite widespread in the city and that we are going to see an exponential rise in cases over the coming days.
And yet, the main story on yesterday evening's seven o'clock NHK news was about the cancellation of the Olympics. That's sport's news, in fact it is now 'old news'. There are much more pressing and important matters to be concerned with.
In a news conference last night, the governor of Tokyo, Koike Yuriko, called for the citizens of the city to remain indoors over this coming weekend and to work from home as much as possible. What was interesting that this was a 'request' rather an 'order' or even a 'directive'. It was phrased in elaborate 尊敬語, (sonkeigo), the honorific form of the language used when you trying to convey your apologies at how much of an imposition your request is. It is the sort of language Japanese politicians typically use when they are announcing unpopular measures or policies.
Unfortunately, this gives the impression that the crisis is still a political rather than health crisis. The implication is that the people of Tokyo have a choice; that they can ignore this request, venture out on Saturday and Sunday and at worst be thought of as selfish individuals.
What was needed (and will probably happen as the situation escalates) our medical experts, particularly epidemiologists, to explain clearly and calmly (and without using 尊敬語), what is happening, what needs to be done, and what the consequences are if expert advice is ignored.

Tuesday, 24 March 2020

Ad Astra - A brief film review


Now, like most of the other important international media (New York Times, The Guardian, the Economist, the Hokkaido Shimbun), it would be very easy for this blog to become all consumed with the coronavirus.
But I am not going to let that happen, dear reader. No, I will balance the darkness with light, the tragic with the uplifting, the Mayo Footballers with the special genius that will be forever Joe Canning.
So, with this post I am going to commence an intermittent series of brief film reviews. With my university classes suspended until April 22, and no overseas travel for the foreseeable future, I now, finally, have some time to catch up on matters celluloid.
First up is Ad Astra, a science fiction film starring my doppelganger, Brad Pitt. In this movie Brad plays a man suffering from bradycardia. For the medically illiterate among you (and by now that should be a vanishingly small number of you), 'bradycardia' describes a medical condition whereby a person suffers from an abnormally slow heart rate.
Ad Astra details Brad's increasingly wild attempts to accelerate his pulse into beating more than 40 times a minute. He free-falls from an exploding space station in low Earth orbit and his heart rate barely budges above 40. He gets assailed by Pink Floyd fans on the dark side of the moon and still his cardiogram blips along at the four zero mark. He tries to escalate matters by getting attacked by psychotic baboons on a spaceship (no, seriously) just beyond the Asteroid Belt (a.k.a. Cavan). And still his heart tick-tocks along under 50. He even gets as far as Neptune, has a bit of a schmozzle with his old man, all manner of things get blown up and yes, you guessed it, still no cure for the bloody bradycardia.
I will have to say that this film affected me deeply. Like Brad, I too suffer from bradycardia. Like Brad, I too possess a whiskey-oak handsomeness that defies age. And like Brad, I too have spurned the desperate love of Angelina Jolie (it's why I came to Japan. Long story).
Five stars.

The Tokyo Olympics



 This is Mori Yoshiro, former prime minister and current head of the organizing committee for the 2020 Olympics. Yesterday he presided over a packed press conference where he said that over the next 4 weeks a decision would be made regarding the event.
Yes, 4 weeks.
To make a decision that every dog on the street knows is inevitable. The question is no longer if the Games will be postponed, but rather until when? Indeed, just this evening the prime minister of Japan announced that he and the IOC are planning to postpone the event until next year.
But that's not why I am writing this piece. No, my interest is in Mori-san. Like I said, he appeared before the world's press and acknowledged the difficulty in proceeding with the Olympics as scheduled. Lots of reporters, lots of questions, lots of excitement in the air. God only knows what else was in the air, too.
Mori Yoshiro is 82 years old. What on this plague-stricken Earth was an 82 year old man doing in a hot, stuffy, windowless room with a crowd of people from all directions of the compass answering a question that we all know the answer to already?

Monday, 23 March 2020

Hokkaido and the Coronavirus, part 5

It would seem, from the number of page views, that my insightful explanation of Japanese work culture isn't particularly popular.
Philistines.
No, panic appeals. My posts on the coronavirus have by far and away the most views. So, loathe as I am to pander to people's acrid taste for the sensational, I must nevertheless abide by that journalistic axiom to give the reading public what they want.
So, here it is, another series of observations on the virus and its pernicious effect on life here in Hokkaido.
Let's begin with some comparative facts and figures comparing and contrasting Hokkaido and Ireland. Hokkaido has a total area of 83,424 square kilometers and has a population of 5,268,166 people. Sapporo is the largest city on the island with a population of 1,969,793. The island of Ireland has (including Northern Ireland) an area of 84,421 square kilometers and a combined population of 6,806,900 people. Dublin has a population of 1,273,069.
As of yesterday, March 22nd, Hokkaido had a cumulative total of 162 confirmed cases, with 6 fatalities.
In Ireland, the respective figures are 906 and 4.
Hokkaido recorded its first case on January 28th, in Ireland it was a month later on February 29th.
Sooooo, what can we conclude.
Firstly, I think that the number of confirmed cases in Hokkaido misrepresents the number of people with the virus. Japan has not been particularly aggressive with their testing and the paranoid, Alan J. Pakula fan in me suspects that this is a deliberate policy on the part of the government. They are trying to strike a very difficult balance between health concerns and economic interests. On Thursday, the 3 week state of emergency called by the Hokakido prefectural governor came to an end and wasn't renewed. This was despite the continuing uptick of cases on the island. The principal reason behind this wasn't that the emergency measures - chief among them school closures and people voluntary staying at home - were ineffective, but rather, from an economic point of view, they were proving to be overly effective.
Tourism (along with agriculture) is the main driver of the island's economy. Once the state of emergency came into effect, it basically fell of a cliff. Hotel reservations were cancelled by the thousands, restaurants, bars, cafes closed, tour bus companies went bankrupt, and a large swathe of part-time or contract staff suddenly found themselves without a job. In the face of all this, the governor declined to renew the state of emergency while at the same time calling on people to 'take care' when going out.
This, I feel, has bred a dangerous sense of complacency; the subjective (and scientifically unproven) feeling that perhaps the worst is behind us and we can begin to move on. Today the ministry of education announced that under certain conditions, schools would reopen again in April at the start of the new academic year. Meanwhile, the national figures for the spread of the virus are now increasing by 40 to 50 cases daily, with more and more cases cropping up in the three large urban centres of Tokyo, Osaka, and Nagoya.
And, adding to the rather surreal, head-scratching situation we find ourselves in, the Olympic flame has arrived in Japan and has begun its journey around the country. Given that the Olympics themselves seem set to be postponed by year (if not two), it will be a long slow journey. Better hope the flame doesn't go out entirely.


Saturday, 21 March 2020

An unexpected visitor

A rare sighting of Aquila chrysaetos
We had an unexpected visitor to the bird feeder in front of our house. A wonderful surprise. Now, I am just an amateur birder, not an expert, but even I can recognize a golden eagle when I see it.
A truly magnificent bird.
Just look at that majestic, piercing gaze and that golden, bushy tail.
Though I'm not so sure about the eagle's, eh, ears.
But still, a spectacular photograph I think you'll agree.

Friday, 20 March 2020

Presenteeism



The Oxford Dictionary defines 'presenteeism' as "the practice of spending more time at your work than you need to according to your contract, in order to appear to be working hard". I would append that with "innate to, and ingrained within, Japanese work culture". The very fact that you are in the office, shop, factory, or, in Sanae's case, the school staff room, is equated with 'work'. Being present is considered more important than productivity. Well, maybe not more important, but more socially acceptable. Being present maintains a social norm - 'we' are all working. In contrast, completing all your work and then going home would be regarded as self-centred individualism.
This links with another, off-cited aspect of Japanese life - the distinction between tatemae and honne. Books have been written about these concepts. Most of them are woefully tenuous, unsubstantiated rubbish, people's subjective opinions sequinned onto a thin gossamer of what they pass off as objective fact.
This blog is no different but at least I'm upfront about it.
Anyway, 'tatemae' can be equated with 'appearance', while 'honne' refers to a person's true feelings buried beneath their seemingly placid, acquiescent demeanour. Japanese working life, and particularly presenteeism, provides instructive example of this inherent duality. In the office, people are seen to be working; they may not be doing anything particularly productive, but they are seen to be 'working'.
When I worked in Shibetsu in the preceding millennium, this time of year during the spring holidays, I would have to go into the office of the Board of Education. Next to me sat S-san, a man ostensibly in charge of the procurement needs of the schools in Shibetsu. When he wasn't out being wined and dined by blackboard manufacturers, he would spend his days sitting at his desk, puffing his way through a pack of Seven Star cigarettes (like I said, this was the last millennium), slurping Boss canned coffee, and idly flicking through furniture catalogs. He was, in the apt words of Karl Marx, when explaining historical materialism and the concept of labour surplus, "doing fuck all". And I'm sure he knew that. In the heart of his honne, he no doubt realised that this wasn't anything even resembling work, but he was working for the town office, he had a good, pensionable job for life and if the most he had to do was maintain some tatemae by spending an inordinate amount of unproductive time at his desk, then what the hell: crack open another can and light up another cigarette.
Hokkaido is now into the fourth week of school closures, yet teachers all across the island are still required to be in school by 8:15 and be there until 5:15. This is institutional presenteeism and nobody objects. Or rather nobody objects in public because that would be revealing your honne when you should be maintaining your tatemae. Sanae comes home in the evening and fairly vents; it takes a couple of beers and a long foot massage before she finally calms down. She (rightly) points out that having 30+ people confined to the same room for 8 hours every day directly conflicts with the health advice being given about people maintaining their social distance.  Yet, nobody in authority wants to burst this particular bubble because to do so would be a refutation of not just presenteeism, but a quintessential part of Japanese work culture as well.

In 神様`s country

It was the Emperor's birthday yesterday (he turned a sprightly 65 - Banzai!), so us common people were given a holiday to celebrate his ...