Wednesday 30 January 2013

Gangland Killing!!

Bet that title grabbed your attention.
Noboribetsu, the next town over from Muroran (and where Sanae works), suffered its 15 minutes of infamy when a man was murdered there yesterday lunchtime. He was shot at a hotel in town's hot spring resort (Dad you were there - and lived to tell the tale!).
Listen to me.
He was mercilessly gunned down in a gangland slaying while terrified guests screamed and dived for cover. A suspect was arrested a mere three hours later (let's hear it for the Hokkaido 5-O) at Toya train station whilst attempting, somewhat bizarrely, to make his getaway on the Hokuto Number 14 bound for Hakodate.
Which basically means that the Hokkaido 5-0 pretty much knew immediately who to look for and, after a quick chat with 'the usual suspects', where to find him.
He had a gun on him when he was arrested which is pretty incriminating. This, thankfully, isn't America.
Other suspects are still at large as apparently a Hi-Ace van load of them drove off (at speed) immediately after the shooting. Sorry, gangland slaying.
Turns out that the arrested man is an ex-pupil from Sanae's school which means Noboribetsu is now eligible to be twinned with any of the odd numbered postal districts in Dublin.
While there are no known gangsters in her school, she does have her suspicions about one of the seven year old boys in her class. Apparently he's "an awful little fecker", though he has an alibi for yesterday's events: he was getting on his teacher's nerves by refusing to eat his lunch.


Friday 25 January 2013

Abenomics


Since December last Japan has had a new prime minister, their fourth in three years, their seventeenth since the start of the Heisei Period (Google it) and, well, does anybody really care anymore? Prime ministers here are a type of political kaiten sushi.
The newest incumbent is Shinzo Abe. He is what we political pundits like to call "an arse" as in "complete and utter". He has form too. He was prime minster before for exactly one year from September 2006 to 2007, a term of office that is commonly hailed as an utter debacle. Despite the myriad of problems besetting Japan at the time (all of which have metastasized in the intervening years), he spent much of his 12 months in power banging his own personal patriotic revisionist gong, tired as he said "of all that Chinese whingeing about the bloody war", or words to that effect. Sample quote: "There is a problem as to how to define aggressive wars; we cannot say it is decided academically".
Since his re-election Abe has focused first and foremost on economic matters as he has belatedly realized that full-blooded samurai patriotism isn't going to put rice on the table. His thinking (if we can for the moment charitably ascribe this ability to him despite all evidence too the contrary) on matters economic has been termed 'Abenomics'. Basically what this amounts to is coercing the Japanese central bank into setting an official inflation target of 2% and keep printing Yen until that target is reached.
This though isn't sound economic policy; it is in fact a fairy tale.
I know this because (a) I got a B in economics in my Leaving Cert; and (b) this kind of publicly financed pump-priming has been tried in various forms over the past two decades since the end of the Bubble Era and it has never, ever succeeded.
The fiscal fairy magic is meant to work something like this: press 'start' on the printing press and flood the nation's banks with cheap money who in turn will invest in and/or lend that money to businesses. Then Sammy Sony and Tommy Toyota will in turn use this influx of money to invest in new capital stock which in turn will have a knock on effect on other sectors of the economy. While all this is going on the Government will also embark on one of those patented public spending blowouts on roads, bridges, beaches - anything that can be concreted basically - that Japan does so well. It is essentially a form of social welfare as the jobs created are temporary, low-skilled and completely dependent on (a) state largesse; and (b) finding enough things to cover in concrete.
Anyway all this extra Yen circulating will stimulate demand for everything, naturally leading to an across the board increase in prices. This in turn will push up sales and profits in companies which will, thanks to the paternalistic beneficence of enlightened leaders of commerce, be passed on to their grateful employees in the form of wage increases. As opposed to being either hoarded or paid out in dividends.
Said grateful employees will then take themselves down to their nearest Best Denki where they will loose the run of themselves buying robot floor cleaners and Louis Vuitton handbags. All this  consumption will further stimulate the economy ultimately resulting in a virtuous spiral where consumer demand continuously spurs industrial supply and everybody lives happily ever after.
Like I said, a fairy tale.
And from the point of view of many up here in Hokkaido, not a particularly enjoyable fairytale either. In 2007 the average interest rate being charged for a business loan by the banks was 2.2%. Last year that had fallen to 1.7%, yet total lending remained the same as five years previously. Why? Because companies don't want to borrow. Another why? Because demand for their products and services isn't there, hasn't been there for a long time now. Which leads us to the final why? Because of demographics. I know, I know, I am pounding this particular drum a lot, but the beat remains the same.
There was a very good article in a recent edition of the London Review of Books (Cian lent me his copy) which you can read here about the crippling effects long term demographic changes have wrought on Russia. Especially interesting is how such changes take a long time to manifest themselves and even longer to alter. They are like those huge oil tankers that measure their stopping and turning distances in miles. It is the same here in Japan. All inflation targets and increased public spending do is slow the ship down a bit; they do nothing to alter its course.
And that course is looking increasingly Greek (if I am not stretching the metaphor too far). By the end of March government debt is estimated to be 234% of GDP.
Which basically means...well, nothing really. It's a couple of numbers and letters. So how about figures then. It will be a thousand trillion yen. Which still doesn't really do the figure justice. So how about this: ¥1,000,000,000,000,000.
Now compare it to this: 128,000,000. That's the population of Japan.
Which means that each and everyone of us - me, Sanae and Cian (though mainly Cian) and the other 127,999,997 owe a whopping ¥7,812,500 per person. For my foreign friends that's €64,648 or $86,384. Plus interest. By comparison, Ireland's debt per person is just under half that amount at €31,208. And at least the folks back home have made some progress in trying to reduce it. Here we just keep adding to the amount in what is quickly turning out to be the biggest (and potentially most catastrophic) financial gamble in human history.
Right now the government can get away with it as 90% of its debt is financed domestically. But that remaining 10% is foreign owned (mostly, I am guessing, by the Chinese, just waiting in the long grass, biding their time...) and increasing annually. Johnny foreigner is going to want something more for his money than just concrete, i.e. increased yields on the debt. This will in turn push up interest rates and then your inflation turns into hyperinflation and we're back to food riots, totalitarian dictatorships and world wars.
Don't say you weren't warned.


Wednesday 23 January 2013

Today

is a rather nice day for mid-winter here in Hokkaido. The sun is shining clear through a bright, brittle azure sky; there isn't a cloud to be seen nor a lick of wind, and the temperature has climbed to a balmy +2 degrees celsius.
Unfortunately today is also a Wednesday, so my enjoyment of this unseasonal weather is vicarious at best. I might sneak in a quick 20 minute stroll at lunchtime just to remind my skin what sunshine feels like and to stave off rickets.
Unfortunately, the weather is due to change late tomorrow evening - typically, just in time for the weekend - and we are due blizzards and lots of snow from Friday on.
With that prospect maybe I will extend my walk to 30 minutes, students be damned.


Saturday 19 January 2013

We have been



in Singapore. Though, I hasten to add, not for the last three weeks. Just a week, long enough to induce some envy in those of you who are still reading this blog. Prior to that we spent a week at my mother-in-law's house, which should balance the envy out with some pity. 
Singapore was an exercise in tropical deja vu as we visited last year as well. Familiarity, though far from breeding contempt, did elicit a kind of nonplussed languor; as a tourist destination there is a limit to the city's attractions. We quickly reached that limit and then it was back to the Zoo, back to the beach, back to the Botanical Gardens, and back to My Peranakan Spice Box, but only because these places were well worth visiting a second time. 
It was a week of rest, good food, and minimal excitement (except for this apocalyptic thunderstorm that exploded upon us late one afternoon when we were downtown. Rain torrenting down so hard you couldn't see the other side of the street, constant lightening rippling and crackling across the dark sky, great gusts of wind whipping the palm trees this way and that; and throughout it all furious peals of deafening thunder crashing and echoing among the streaming towers of the business district).
Anyway, some random thoughts on our trip:
(1) William Gibson, the SF writer, has long used Tokyo has his template for the city of the future, but I think Singapore may be shouldering it aside. With the Marina Bay Sands complex and the newly opened Gardens by the Bay, the city is using public works to manufacture future spectacle. As a whole the city seems to be aiming for an advanced state of modernity: clean, efficient, safe. But also culturally banal and in thrall to mindless, constant consumption. It is a SIM city brought to tropical life.
(2) Chocolate. They like their refined cocoa in Singapore. Chocolate cafes, pastisseries, sweet shops, ice cream parlours - they're everywhere. Mammy was happy. As they had  mars bars in the 7-11's, Daddy was happy too.
(3) You see neither old nor small cars in the city. Owning a car is prohibitively expensive, deliberately so, as the government wants people to only use public transport. Before you can buy a car you have to bid, yes, that's right, bid for a Certificate of Entitlement to actually own the thing. These in themselves are quite expensive (thousands of euros expensive) and are valid for only 10 years, after which you must bid once more for it. These certificates are strictly limited, hence the necessity for bids and hence the expense. In addition, all imported cars (basically all cars) have a 41% import duty tacked on to them as well. The result of all this is that cars are the privilege of the wealthy, and if they are going to all that expense to actually own a vehicle it might as well be a prestige model. hence the preponderance of German marquee brands - Benz, BMW, Audi,- with those a little lower down the automotive ladder favoring Korean Hyundais. Japanese cars are surprisingly few.
(4) I found myself one wet afternoon in very good second hand book shop. They like their James Patterson thrillers in the steamy tropics. And the happy clappy Nicholas Sparks' stuff, whilst titillation comes courtesy of the timeless Danielle Steele. But even these literary heavyweights were overshadowed by the stacked shelves of "How to succeed in your job/career/finances/investments/life/death" manuals. All of which, one can only conclude, must be wrong as (a) if there was a proven book on how to succeed, people would have presumably bought only it; and (b) even so, if we all succeed, wouldn't we still, comparatively speaking, be standing still? And finally (c) less abstractly, why are all these books in a second hand bookstore?
(5) The Snake House at the Singapore Zoo. Is freakin awesome!!! There is a class of python there that I swear is the length and girth of a 10 foot tree trunk. And the King Cobra!  Sweet Saint Patrick but that thing is nightmarishly impressive. Imagine a sickly green venomous hoover and you get the idea. Or maybe not. No photos though as Sanae refused to give me her camera.
(6) I may knock the shallow consumptive culture of the city, but that is more than compensated by the richness and variety of the food on offer. Singapore is fairly exacting in its culinary standards and you are pretty much guaranteed a good meal regardless of where you go. And we went. Indian, Vietnamese, Thai, Peranakan, Egyptian, French, Japanese and Irish. Or rather Sino-Irish fusion.
(7) Oh, and they have a pretty amazing aquarium too. Reminded me of my scuba diving days in Koh Tao. Ahh the grouper around South West Pinnacles; Tyson the trigger fish up at Twin peaks. Dinners at the Big Blue restaurant where they used to show 'Braveheart' night after night; checking your shoes every morning for scorpions; the sunsets on the beach; the sunrises on the beach; the sleeping on the beach in between because you were too drunk to find your way back to your cabin; the overnight trips down to Malaysia to renew your three month holiday visa and thinking the place too uptight. The chance encounters, the fleeting romances, happened but gone, lost to memory, perhaps best forgotten...
Anyway the aquarium at Singapore is worth a visit, if you can contain your nostalgia.












April - the most stressful month

 And so, with its usual unstoppable momentum, April has rolled around and with it the start of the new school and business year. Sanae must ...