Kobe

Kobe is a small(isn) city in the western part of Japan close to Osaka. (A geographical aside: although most maps show Japan slanting down in a sort of sloped North-South direction, here the country is divided into East and West with North being used for Hokkaido while South refers to Okinawa. This is a legacy of Japan's feudal past during which time neither Hokkaido nor Okinawa were considered parts of the country. And yes, you have my permission to use this tidbit to wow everyone at Christmas parties. Who be the urbane Orientalist? You be the urbane Orientalist, now finger-flip your chopsticks). I last visited the city some 14 years ago for the now legendary JET Programme renewers conference. At the time I was living the life of the vampire alcoholic - partied all night, slept during the day. I didn't see much of the city and to be honest, I didn't much care.
I was young and high spirited.
God, was I young.
And 'high spirited' is a polite way of saying, well, you know.
This time around middle-aged respectability has taken hold; marriage, fatherhood, responsible job, inability to hold my liquor, so I got to see more of the city.
Of all the places I have been in Japan (surprisingly few), Kobe currently gets my vote as Japan's most liveable, cosmopolitan city. It is compact but blessed with a compelling diversity of attractions - cultural, culinary, shopping, and entertainment. There is something for all of its citizens. And a pretty diverse bunch they are too. Following the Sakoku period when Japan shut itself off from the rest of the world, Kobe was designated as one of the commercial ports through which trade with Western countries could take place. This led to a rapid influx of foreign ships, companies, and ultimately residents. They in turn established a foreign quarter that thrived in the pre-war years. Both a major war and an earthquake destroyed much of this history, but what buildings are left have been carefully restored and are now the city's chief tourist attraction. Kobe's importance as an international port remains - it is Japan's fourth busiest - and this is reflected in the wealth of the city. Put simply, it is a rich city, one that wears its prosperity well.
Coming from Muroran, a place that is literally falling apart, it is quite a shock to arrive in Kobe and realise that not all of Japan is succumbing to a demographic wilderness. In Kobe you understand why Japan in still the third largest economy in the world. In Muroran you wonder why they haven't already shut up shop and sold what's left to the Chinese.
So, yes Kobe appeals to me even more so now as we head into the long dark winter. I may not be able to party like it was 1999 again, but I am pretty sure I would be able to appreciate the city's more subdued charms.